Helsinki, Finland – August 2008
The most dramatic thing that I’ve ever heard about Helsinki is that it’s a “nice” city. This bland description is usually accompanied by a shrug. Therefore, I do not expect much.
As the ferry enters the Helsinki harbor, my eyes are drawn to two immense cathedrals. The one on the right is earth-colored. The one in the center is immaculate white. It rises above the orderly buildings as if enthroned. A commanding presence against the slate gray sky. I can’t take my eyes off of it.
Later, when I walk through the imposing doors, my mouth drops open. The walls are completely vacant. A simple chandelier hangs from the highest dome. The only ornamentation is a circular gilt canopy over the pulpit. There are no dramatic frescoes or effigies to behold. It is my first time in a Protestant cathedral. The vast emptiness inspires wonder, not indifference.
Then I understand: there are no distractions from the words being spoken from the pulpit.
The buildings of Helsinki are just as spartan. No gargoyles. No cherubs. Only clean lines and subdued colors. I find it intriguing rather than boring.
The only sign of architectural frivolity is the Central Railway Station. Four male figures bear circular lanterns. But even these figures are stoic and hard-edged. It is a solemn, masculine design.
I stare at it for a long time. It’s the coolest building that I’ve ever seen.
When I visit the sea fortress of Suomenlinna, the sun makes a reappearance. I meander the paths and passages. I climb to the top of a hill and look out over the water. It is mid-August, and already the light is diffused. I don’t need to shield my eyes from the sun.
There are few other visitors, and most of these seem to be Finns rather than foreign tourists. I had heard that Finns were cold and unfriendly. It’s hard to judge in just two days, but I don’t agree. A frugality of expression shouldn’t be mistaken as rudeness. In these latitudes, all forms of heat are precious and must be conserved.
Great set of Helsinki photos. Helsinki is Helsinki and the rest of Finland is more interesting.
Happy blogging!
Hi! I’ve heard that Finland is amazing. Maybe one day I’ll see more of it. Cheers. 🙂
A stair case to heaven.. on earth ; )
It sure is.
Nice photos and post. The central station is indeed amazing. It looks like a concert hall.
Thanks, Chris. That’s still my favorite building ever.
More photos to come? It looks interesting and I doubt I’ll visit.
Hi Jo, I probably won’t post my other Helsinki photos on the blog, because they aren’t very good. I only publicly post what I consider to be my best. –Julie
“A frugality of expression shouldn’t be mistaken as rudeness. In these latitudes, all forms of heat are precious and must be conserved.” Great lines. 🙂
Thank you. 🙂
I liked the last lines as well 🙂 Nice description of the city.. I sort of see why it probably gets a bland description 😉 The statues from the railway station are peculiar
Thank you! I suppose most people would consider Helsinki bland, but I thought it was unique. Cheers!
Great post about my home town. Helsinki is not bland, you just need to appreciate it for what it is, a capital so far up north and a people who are restrained, not flamboyant.
Hi there – I totally agree about Helsinki not being bland. I happen to like austere beauty. 🙂 Cheers!
I will be posting more pictures of Helsinki in the future. Meanwhile, if you have time, do visit a friend 365 project of Finland @ http://helsinki365.com/archive Excellent shots of Helsinki.
Thanks! Will check it out.
Some awesome turns of phrases here. ‘Architectural frivolity’, ‘frugality of expression’… Top notch! Always nice to see some good press for F countries as well. Cheers!
Hey there – Thanks! Do we dare hope for an F country feature on the Mighty F?
Beautiful structures… I love those male figures too, they add character.
I like the male figures because they are a type of architecture that I’ve never seen before – classic, but not overly fancy. I looked up the style and learned that it’s late Art Nouveau.
I just discovered your blog! I loved it. All your images are amazing. The architecture shown is great aswell. Congratulations and look forward to your next post 🙂
Hello! Thanks so much for stopping by.
Love reading your post..thanks for liking my post
Thank you!
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