Prague, Czech Republic – October 2010
Autumn in Prague. The muted sunlight infuses the clouds with a golden glow. We stand at the edge of the Vltava River and watch the steady stream of people moving across the Charles Bridge. We are psyching ourselves up to jump into the human current.
My eyes come to rest on a lone fisherman. He has managed to find some peace amid the masses.
Prague is beauty as far as the eye can see.
There is no low season in Prague, only slightly more room to move. When I was younger, I used to be contemptuous of those who travel on organized tours or those who only go to the popular places. Now I realize that it’s good that people are willing to make any effort to expand their horizons. My tolerance only goes so far, however.
Last night, after a day of waiting in lines and dodging aggressive souvenir vendors, I asked the receptionist at our small hotel, “Do you know a good local place to eat? We don’t want to be around tourists.” I rolled my eyes and smiled.
Her eyes narrowed. A scornful sniff was her reply.
As we follow the herd across the Charles Bridge, I suddenly understand her reaction. We are merely two faces in the hoards that have overrun her city. We had a lot of nerve thinking that we were different. The locals want to keep some places of their own.
When we arrive back at the Old Town Square, my husband points at a crowd that has coalesced in front of the astronomical clock. “Something is happening there.”
“Oh, yeah, at the top of the hour, the clock is supposed to move. Or something. We may as well look since we’re here.” I’ve done enough research about Prague to know that the clock show is probably overrated.
We merge sideways into the crowd. The spaces between shrink as others arrive. Glances become territorial. Elbows emerge. A large group of Polish tourists pushes to the front. A tall guy with a fat neck stands right in front of me.Β The crowd has swelled to several hundred people. The chatter becomes a din.
“A photo of the crowd is probably more interesting than the clock show,” I mumble to my husband.
“Do it.” His eyes sparkle with mischief.
I take his camera and turn around. Another gargantuan individual is standing behind me. If I lift my husband’s huge Nikon camera, it will be right in the guy’s face. I sigh and turn back around.
The chatter subsides as the clock begins to chime. Faces are upturned, rapt, as the small figures begin to move. It’s nothing more than a glorified cuckoo clock.
All at once I feel the harmony of the herd. I understand the appeal of conformity. It feels good to like what others like. To just go along with what we’re told. This is what one does when one visits Prague! Tears of joy spring to my eyes.
“Wow, that’s so interesting.” The sarcasm in my husband’s voice kills my buzz. “I feel incredibly ridiculous for waiting for this.”
“Party pooper.” I giggle. I look around at the other faces, expecting to see disappointment. However, they are totally blank. The crowd disperses into the various currents that move through the Old City. On to the next special attraction.
I ponder that brief synchronicity as we make our way back to the river. I now understand why most people are natural followers. It’s so much easier to leave the responsibility of making even the smallest of decisions to others. My aversion to conformity caused me much grief as a child and young adult. However, I’m now grateful for those character-building experiences. The loneliness has ebbed away, but the curiosity has endured.
I say nothing of this to my weary husband. He usually tolerates crowds better than I do. I won’t further burden him with my melodramatic reflections.
Because, sometimes, a clock is just a clock.
I haven’t yet made it to Prague but a fellow blogger was singing its praises yesterday, crowds and all.
It is a fine-looking clock, whatever it does π
Yes, it’s a beautiful clock. It doesn’t need to do anything. π
Once again you have taken me to the place of stillness where I am led to ponder great authors. Amazing fluidity and grace in your transitions from inner to outer realms and back…
Thanks, Viv. Your comments are always such an ego boost.
Amazing photos! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for stopping by.
Nice clock but rubbish attraction! I took the photo of the crowd you were thinking of taking, from the top of the Town Hall looking down.
I’m sure that’s a great photo…all the little people looking up. π
The best time to see the clock is at 3 or 4 in the morning. There might be less of a “show” and you might be joined by a scattering of inebriated non-Czechs in their post-party haze. On the other hand, as one who’s big on history and a recovering astronomer, I learned a lot about this copy, as my Czech friend provided plenty of information and historical context. Sleep is highly overrated, especially when there’s the golden glow of a sunrise to witness.
I get the feeling that Prague, in general, is best viewed while normal people are asleep. Maybe next time. Thanks for the tip about the clock. π
Hi! You’re welcome! If I remember correctly, the original version of the clock (or something very close to that) is housed in the City Museum near Florenc station. When you’re back in Prague, have a look around in the early hours of the morning around sunrise, and in the hours after sundown.
I’m sorry that the jadedness was something that coloured your visit. I hope you give the place another chance in the future.
Something I forgot to add in my reply but one of your commenters also stated, taking a picture of the crowd looking up at the Astronomical Clock is a fascinating exercise: for example, http://instagram.com/p/dFibUkJItJ/
Finally, these are some reasons why one might want to wake up early or stay out late in Prague, respectively: http://wp.me/p1BIdT-13s | http://wp.me/p1BIdT-3B8
LOVE that photo of the people! That’s exactly how it is. π
Thank you! I agree; as history and astronomy are in my wheelhouse of interests, the alternative of seeing all those people look up at the clock is far more entertaining. π
That “hotel receptionist” should be in a different line of work. Tourists are silly, but they pay the bills. Thank you, Julie, for sharing your artist-eye and your poet-mind with us.
Yeah, I was pretty stunned. On many occasions, I’ve asked for recommendations on local places from hotel receptionists and have never had such a hostile reaction. The main problem with Prague, and other places that are overrun with tourists, is not so much the crowds, but that the locals are jaded. They really don’t care if you ever come back. There will always be more to replace you. I’ve heard real horror stories from friends who’ve been ripped off by waiters and taxi drivers, and/or screamed at by restaurant staff. By comparison, we were treated fine, but neither of us is really motivated to go back.
Julie
I have seen such a change in your writing since you started. I have always treasured everything you have written but now your writing is like a picture. I can see it all in my mind. Thanks for staying with it, you bring a lot of joy.
Thank you for always being my biggest fan, Mom. It means a lot. Love you.
The three sentences that stood out for me was: βAll at once I feel the harmony of the herd. I understand the appeal of conformity. It feels good to like what others like.β
I have felt the very same affect; it comes unannounced and in places that have surprised me. In a crowded restaurant, a bus stop during a downpour, even an airport. These moments stick in my memory. In general, humanity leads a solitary existence; and yet, we strive to find a way to participate and engage with others. Sometimes, it happens naturally. It feels amazing!
Another excellent post! BTW, I like your new format!
It’s a nice feeling, isn’t it? It has happened to me on odd occasions, too. This one was the funniest, though. π Thanks for noticing my new blog design. I’ve wanted to use this theme for a long time, but couldn’t figure out what photo to use.
Great style – you matched the colours perfectly! π
Interesting observations. We all want to be individual and special but sometimes it is easier to be anonymous amongst the crowd. Regardless, the receptionist though was wrong not to give you the advice you wanted. It is a service industry.
Yes, we all want to feel individual, but not everyone realizes that it take an effort to be so. π Thanks a lot for chiming in with your thoughts.
“don’t be foolish be intelligent don’t follow the masses, if you want to be an idiot or mediocre follow them”
my uncle always says this to me and Charlie Chaplin once said “Man as an individual is a genius. But men in the mass form the headless monster, a great, brutish idiot that goes where prodded”
…so you are very intelligent π
the two links added to the story
great photos, when I went to Prague
I went in October it was cold, there was
not a lot of tourist I enjoyed my time there
but it was too cold for me.
Honestly, the masses creep me out. While I can understand the natural instinct to seek safety and comfort in the herd, I’m disturbed by how easily such a large number of individuals can be manipulated.
Traveling in cool/cold weather takes some getting used to. I’ve been in Europe of over 6 years and have only recently learned to like walking around these beautiful old cities in the rain and wind. It’s all about dressing for it. π
I was there in April 2002 on a business trip which had the advantage of our hosts proudly giving us a free guided tour and of course they knew all the best restaurants. Lovely city but cheap flights from the UK meant there were far too many drunken hen and stag parties roaming the streets at night – embarrassing – we (Brits) have a lot to answer for
A local person showing you around is definitely the way to go. That way you avoid the tourist traps and crappy restaurants.
Stag and hen parties are a normal occurrence over in this part of Europe. There’s nothing like seeing a hairy man in a bridal gown barfing in a beautiful fountain.
This is a wonderful post, full of terrific pictures, and delightful commentary. And I LOVE your reaction to that clock. π
Thanks a lot! Tourist traps aren’t only in America. π
hahaha… don’t I know it… I’ve been to Bangkok. π
Funnily enough I thought about (and managed to get) a picture of the crowd itself. Was indeed more fascinating
I bet it was. π
Looks like you’re enjoying this adopted town of mine – it’s a great place isn’t it? Lovely photos …
Thank you. Yes, it was a beautiful place.
When I see the photos I get homesick. Thanks for sharing!
Sorry the photos make you homesick. Hopefully you can still visit.
Oh yes, going back to Prague early November!
i’ve been in Prague five years ago and i still want to return in spring. It’s a beatiful city with a particular gothic charm. In winter it’s wonderful! so good shots!
Cris
I’m sure it’s lovely in winter, as in all seasons. Thank you for stopping by, Cris. –Julie
May I give you another like? Great presentation!
Haha. Thanks!
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Thanx, Miss Vagabonde for this amazing post! π I’ll always miss Prague… been there twice!
Have a great weekend and my very best… cheers! MΓ©lanie
Thank you, Melanie. You have a lovely weekend, too. — Julie
Prague is beautiful! So picturesque.
Indeed it is. π
Well apparently I’ve missed a few of your posts…? You must have gotten lost in my reader some how. Great pictures, and yes I believe sometimes a clock is just a clock.. π
Yes, it often happens that posts don’t show up in WP readers. I don’t rely on it anymore, but rather visit blogs manually. Thanks for visiting!
My great Aunt always said you have to find a place before the tourists do. But, those photos of yours make the place look magical. Especially the clocks
Thanks very much, Hamish. Your great aunt is correct. Prague was “discovered” by tourists just after they opened to the West. You have to go East to be off the beaten path in Europe nowadays – Serbia, Ukraine, Romania, etc. Now is the time to visit before the hoards discover them. Cheers!
I’ve heard the food isn’t so great though…
Where..in Prague? I had some good food, but I made an effort to find non-touristy restaurants. π
In Eastern Europe. A Japanese friend of mine told me, but then, they don’t usually like salty food π
Sometimes when visiting a place as a tourist it’s fun to be, well, a tourist, and to do touristy things. The genuine experience, whatever that is, is difficult to achieve in an age of mass tourism. The key for me is to have time and to travel slowly. Otherwise, how would one ever be able to distinguish between the real flavor of a place and the touristy veneer?
You’ve got a great blog; I much enjoy to read it!
Well said, Sir! And thank you for the compliment on my blog. Much appreciated. π Julie