Zagreb, Croatia – June 2011
It is not yet afternoon, but a thick, stifling haze has already settled over the city. Even the voices in the market seem muted. I spot no others with cameras or city maps. I am alone with the locals.
Most tourists who pass through Zagreb spend only a few hours or, at most, stay overnight before moving on to the coast. It is a place of transit. The place on the way to someplace else.
Thunderstorms are predicted for the afternoon, so I catch the bus to Mirogoj cemetery. The alleys and passages are deserted. The only sound is that of my steps. The tombs are impressive in an ostentatious sort of way, but the smaller details in the arcade are what hold my attention.
The haze solidifies and rises. For a short time, blue sky appears. The center of Zagreb is broken up into several small squares and parks. I have the impression of moving through different tiny villages. Though these are virtually vacant as well. Even the locals have fled.
A larger park appears. I venture inside, grateful for some leafy shelter. A couple of tasteful souvenir carts are parked by the side of the cobblestone path. A lone couple makes out on a bench. By the time I get to the lookout point, the clouds have reconverged. Once again, the familiar thought: it seems like a nice place to live. And with that thought, the itch resurfaces.
I follow the steps back down to the city. The elderly lady in front of me pauses by a sleeping cat. She strokes it and speaks to it in a soft, singing voice. As I approach, she smiles up at me and says something. I return the smile and nod, because she thinks that I understand. If I were to speak, she would realize that I am a stranger. I place my hand lightly on the creature. It doesn’t stir. Only the soft rise and fall of its chest shows that it’s alive. The lady nods in approval and goes along her way.
Yes, definitely a dreamy autumn feel about these photos. Lovely.
Thank you, Tish. They were actually taken in June 2011, during the trip. But the filters and textures I added give them the autumn glow.
Not a bad looking place for a transit stop. I’m really wondering what that cat lady said to you. You certainly know how to improvise.
Hahaha. I’ve done the “smile and nod like I understand thing” so many times. It just sucks when you say “I don’t understand”. The atmosphere changes and they close down. Sometimes, you have to say it, though. Like when they look at you waiting for an answer.
In most other countries, a city like Zagreb would be one of the main tourist stops, but Croatia has that long Adriatic coast with the islands…too much competition.
I love your writing !
Thanks, Meg. 🙂
Such a true assessment. A beautiful city, that so many people skip or merely scratch the surface of. We can’t wait to get back!
I love to hear that someone else feels the same way. I think it’s a very underrated city. On the other hand, it was really nice to have it practically to myself.
I think people think of Croatia and think only of Dubrovnik… we enjoyed Zagreb (and the self guided tour from there to the Plitvice Lakes) just as much!
I loved Plitvice Lakes, too. Unbelievable place, though really too crowded. I haven’t been to Dubrovnik or the coast, so I really can’t compare. I’m not really motivated to go – the thought of the crowds is making me hesitate.
Ah, we did Plitvice ourselves catching the local bus (very early in the morning), so had the first few hours without the crowds!
Was one of the most spectacular places we’ve seen in all of our travels (I have a post from there somewhere on the site)!
Peaceful interlude in a strange land. You have a heart attuned to all places in between here and there.
Thank you. 🙂 That’s exactly what I try to do.
Another very tempting travel post, it even had me looking for flights from Newcastle (nothing direct 😦 ). The roof of the church in the fourth picture is wonderful.
Thanks, Robin. Too bad about the lack of flights. The door of that church is amazing, too, but my photo of it didn’t turn out well.
I would like to visit Zagreb too…like everybody…i only had the chance to make a quick stop returning from Krk island. I wish to have the chance to visit it soon…at least for a long week-end…beautiful shots. as always.. (cute cat)
Hi Cris – I look forward to the photos you will take when you finally do visit.
There is a rhythm, a nuance, a flow to a city. I found myself lulled by the gentleness of the afternoon. Lovely photos.
Absolutely. In some cities (NY, Paris, etc.), the nuance is obvious. In others, you need to quiet down and go with it.
Once again, you make me want to visit the place you describe ! I’ve just seen the airport of Zagreb, on the way to the coast…
I think that’s all that most people remember about Zagreb – the airport. Maybe next time you can spend a day there.
Great trip Julie. What a fascinating church roof! 🙂
Bon week-end
Brian
Thanks, Brian. Bon weekend to you, too.
great pics dear..make me want to go there…probably next year 🙂
Thanks, Kavita. A Croatia trip next year? Hope it works out for you. 🙂
I thinking about it dear as I have been craving for travel every now and then si
O may be a long term travel will help 😉
Some days it’s like walking a dozen paces behind you and the voice of your camera, it’s photographs dancing from a spindle in tune each place’s new, old and fresh songs at their own pace. Just does some days.
I’ve missed your vibrant comments. I figured you’ve been out on the road yourself, somewhere. Nice to hear your voice.
I was tied up in learning about mobile app development and some about media and public relations, which I kind of DNF for a few reasons. It’s good to be back, and I’m over due to get out on the road. It’s been good to catch up on your travels in eastern Europe/west asia.
Love rooftop photos and I’m not sure why exactly. What a gorgeous cat! Maybe I will put this place on the list when in Crotia in hopefully not too far future!
I used textures on the rooftop photos. I was going through a texture phase then. I’d definitely recommend a day or so in Zagreb, if only to get a break from the crowds.
Hi J. D. …may I please use this title in a sentence for my adventure story ? You always inspire me ! Xx
Yes, go ahead. Thanks for asking.
How wonderful for you to have this almost to yourself to explore, your photos are full of a leisurely sense of wandering!
It was a languid day, for sure. My kinda traveling day.
Slow. Soporific… Loving the capture. I feel like that sleepy cat
Haha. 🙂 S/he does have an enviable attitude.